An Exquisite journey through time
Chanel has been crafting watches since 1987 — and is acclaimed for its distinctive style and super quality in this discipline as well. An overview of some milestones.
1965
27-year-old Jacques Helleu takes over as the artistic director for Fragrance & Beauty at Chanel.
For 40 years, he will define how Chanel presents itself in this area, and from 1987 onwards in Watches & Fine Jewellery as well.
1987
Chanel’s first watch model is called “Première”.
The octagonal watchcase cites the flacon stopper of Chanel No. 5,
while the double-row chain bracelet laced with leather refers to the iconic handbag “2.55”.
1993
Chanel acquires the manufacture G&F Châtelain, which has been producing watchcases,
straps and gem settings in La Chaux-de-Fonds since 1947 and enjoys an outstanding reputation.
It is expanded to become Manufacture Chanel.
2000
With the “J12”, designed by Jacques Helleu, Chanel succeeds in creating the first icon of watchmaking in the 21st century.
Inspired by the world of yacht racing, it is also the first watch made of jet-black high-tech ceramic.
2003
The white version of the “J12” is presented.
Even more than its black sister, it is now considered the face of Chanel in a watch, and the showcase of a perfect women’s watch.
2005
Launch of the “J12 Superleggera”, a pure men’s watch that references to the world of automobiles.
Chanel surprises with the “J12 Tourbillon” — the first tourbillon ever with a ceramic movement plate.
2011
In their manufacture in La Chaux-de- Fonds, Chanel founds a department for Haute Horlogerie;
they keep it secret until the launch of the “Calibre 1” in the “Monsieur de Chanel” 2016.
2012
In collaboration with the watchmakers from Renaud & Papi, with the “Première Tourbillon Volant” Chanel develops their first model with a flying tourbillon. It wins in the “Montre Dames” category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
The “Mademoiselle Privé” collection is presented. The watches are designed like jewel cases and pay homage to the house codes and the craft of watchmaking.
2013
Arnaud Chastaingt becomes the new director of Chanel’s Studio de Création Horlogerie.
The watch “Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé” wins in the “Montre Métiers d’Art” category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
2015
Launch of the “Boy-Friend”: the form evokes the “Première” and thus the Place Vendôme, yet moves on more masculine terrain.
2016
Chanel presents its first in-house movement, the “Calibre 1” with jumping hour and retrograde minute, and launches the “Monsieur de Chanel” model. Here too, the brand succeeds in striking out on new, distinctive paths.
2017
It evokes a piece of jewellery: the “Code Coco” can be closed with a click, just like the “2.55” handbag.
2019
Chanel announces its stake in Kenissi: the factory in Le Locle is known for highly precise movements.
Almost twenty years after the launch of the “J12”, the iconic watch gets a facelift. Externally, the case-back is the most striking change.
2020
Launch of the transparent “J12 X-Ray” with the “Calibre 3.1.”:
the innovative sapphire case provides a view of the purity of the movement. The bracelet consists of links cut from raw sapphires — a technical novelty.
2024
The “J12 Atelier Couture Automate Calibre 6” brings Gabrielle Chanel to life:
thanks to a new movement with 355 components, the watch can be brought to life with the simple push of a button.
After acquiring shares in Romain Gauthier and F.P.Journe, Chanel further expands its watchmaking expertise by taking a 25 percent stake in the independent watch brand MB&F.
Marianne Etchebarne
Marianne Etchebarne is the Global Head of Watches & Fine Jewellery Product Marketing, Clients and Communication at Chanel. From her office, she overlooks the Place Vendôme all the way to the Hôtel Ritz, where Gabrielle Chanel resided in a suite for some thirty years.
"WE MAKE NO COMPROMISES"
Marianne Etchebarne explains why quality stands above everything else at Chanel, and reveals what impresses her most about the person of Gabrielle Chanel.
Madame Etchebarne, you ought to know: which watch would Gabrielle Chanel have enjoyed most?
I could imagine the “Première”. Do you know why? Not only because its chain laced with leather is borrowed from the legendary quilted handbag, and the octagonal form of the dial evokes the stopper of the perfume Chanel No. 5, and thus the Place Vendôme. But because it shows up without any indices, meaning that time can be interpreted, at least a bit.
Come again? What’s good about time remaining vague?
(Laughs) I like the idea that the watch doesn’t dictate the time to the woman, but that the woman, in complete freedom, takes the time she needs.
And if you do want to read time somewhat more precisely?
If you prefer a more traditional approach to a watch dial, the “J12” is a wonderful option. With its iconic black or white optics, it too refers to typical Chanel codes. And with the innovative case of highly resistant ceramics, it appears robust and elegant at the same time. You can always wear it, at any time of day, for any occasion.
Are there Chanel codes that have not yet been reflected in a watch model?
Even some very important ones. It’s the unbelievable wealth of our legacy in connection with creative interpretation that makes the field of possibilities broad and timeless. For next spring’s Watches and Wonders, an adventure is planned that I’m particularly looking forward to. But I’m not at liberty to say any more at this time.
Does Chanel create watches at certain time intervals — a new model every three years?
At Chanel the focus is on the creation, which is served by extraordinary watchmaking know-how. Our main credo is absolute excellence in the design and quality of our movements. We make no compromises there. If the conditions for that are not met, we even prefer to postpone a market launch.
You’ve been working at Chanel for more than twenty years: what facet of Coco Chanel impresses you the most?
Chanel was a self-determined, pluralistic personality. She brought together even what was ostensibly contradictory; she was able to be both Baroque and minimalist. What I’m most impressed by is her visionary approach. Be it in fashion, perfumes, beauty products or jewellery: she never hesitated to disregard conventions if she considered it necessary. This approach is part of our DNA; our creations continue to pursue it today.
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