TWO USEFUL COMPLICATIONS COME TOGETHER FOR THE FIRST TIME
With its round Calatrava case with unique design and decorative features, an inimitable dial and the new self-winding caliber endowed with eight patents, the Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time delivers a perfect example of an approach that combines all facets of watchmaking artistry with balanced elegance.
A MECHANICAL CHALLENGE
The connection between the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time function involved several technical challenges. The issue wasn’t just to accommodate both mechanisms in the same case. They had to interact in such a way that the displayed date corresponded with local time, hence the time at the location of the wearer of the watch. In the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the Annual Calendar is controlled by the Travel Time function and it is the local-time hour wheel that drives the calendar.
THE INCEPTION OF A STYLE
To accommodate this mechanical movement with its exclusive functions, Patek Philippe created a new white-gold case with a diameter of 41 millimeters. The dial is charcoal gray with a fine gradation to the periphery and has a slightly granular structure that is reminiscent of the cases of old photo cameras. The Ref. 5326G-001 is delivered with two interchangeable straps, one beige calfskin with nubuck texture (original version), the other black calfskin with embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching.
For those who particularly appreciate the exclusive design of the new Ref. 5326G-001, Patek Philippe can offer a further watch in the Calatrava collection with the same aesthetic looks but with a somewhat smaller diameter (40 millimeters) and without additional functions. This new Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001 in white gold with a guilloched hobnail motif on the caseband is powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement with center hour, minute, and second hands and an aperture date at 3 o'clock.
5320G - GRAND COMPLICATIONS
A paragon of visual balance and legibility, the perpetual calendar model bearing Reference 5320 was designed in 2017 in a white gold case with a cream-lacquered dial. Its vintage style is reinterpreted in a new white gold version fitted with a gilded opaline rose gold dial. The calendar displays are arranged in the characteristic manner of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar watches since 1941, with a twin in-line day/month aperture at 12 o’clock and a date indicated by a hand surrounding a moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock. These are complemented by two round apertures: one for the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock; and the other for the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock — both of which are useful to adjust the calendar. The extremely accurate moon phases require a one-day correction only once every 122 years.
5172G - COMPLICATIONS
Patek Philippe accentuates the vintage spirit of this model much appreciated by devotees of fine mechanical horology by equipping it with an opaline rose-gilded dial. The legibility of the dial by day or night is ensured by applied Arabic numerals and syringe-type hours/minutes hands made of gold with an anthracite treatment and white luminescent coating, complemented by a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.
The CH 29-535 PS chronograph caliber is distinguished by its architecture protected by six patented innovations, including optimized toothing profile, precision adjustment of engagement depth and self-regulating zero-resetting hammers. This movement also features several distinctive technical characteristics reflecting the same concern for functionality and performance. Its aesthetic and its meticulous finishes are visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back.
5270P - GRAND COMPLICATIONS
Reference 5270, launched in 2011, is heir to several generations of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs. The Manufacture reinterprets this timepiece in a model featuring an iconic yet original style. The radiance of platinum — the most precious metal of all yet also the hardest to work with — magnifies the timeless design of the case, with its concave bezel, its elegant two-tier lugs and its correction push-pieces that are satin-brushed on the flanks and polished on top.
The perpetual calendar displays are harmoniously arranged, with the date indicated by a hand and a moon phase at 6 o’clock, as well as a twin day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, complemented by two round apertures for the day/night indication and the leap-year cycle. Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is distinguished by its traditional architecture, combined with six patented innovations relating to the chronograph, as well as by its exceptionally thin calendar mechanism.
5205R - COMPLICATIONS
Annual Calendar Reference 5205, with its day/date/month apertures arranged along the arc of a circle, was launched in 2010 as two white gold versions. In 2022, Patek Philippe revisits this model in an original and contemporary color. The case is distinguished by its concave bezel, its hollowed flanks and its skeletonized lugs. This refined architecture is entirely hand-polished by the artisans of the Manufacture. The olive green dial is enlivened by a sunburst motif and by a black gradient around the rim. The day/date/month apertures in the upper part ensure perfect readability of the Annual Calendar indications, with a rose gold frame at 12 o’clock accentuating the most important item of information, the date.
The transparent sapphire crystal enables one to admire self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H, equipped with the ingenious patented Patek Philippe Annual calendar mechanism requiring only one manual adjustment per year, at the end of the month of February.
4910/1200A - TWENTY~4
Launched in 1999, the Twenty~4 — the first exclusive feminine Patek Philippe collection — was designed as companion for the life of modern, active women. Wearable at any time of day and night and on every occasion, it asserted itself as the ultimate embodiment of timeless elegance.
The refined and contemporary new olive green dial strikes an optimal contrast with the applied 12 and 6 o’clock numerals, the applied trapeze-shaped hour markers and the rounded baton-style hands. The original shape of the curvaceous Art Deco-inspired two-tier case is accentuated by a row of 18 diamonds set on either side of the dial.
5230P - KOMPLIZIERTE UHREN
Die Referenz 5230 wurde 2016 eingeführt, als Nachfolgerin der berühmten Patek Philippe Weltzeituhren, die in den 1930er Jahren herausgebracht und zu Kultmodellen für Weltreisende und Sammler wurden. Patek Philippe präsentiert diesen kosmopolitischen Zeitmesser zum ersten Mal in einem Platingehäuse in Kombination mit einem blauen Zifferblatt und einem blauen Armband. Die Mitte des Zifferblatts ist mit einem neuen, runden, handguillochierten Motiv verziert. Das äußerst flache Kaliber 240 HU mit Automatikaufzug und zwei drehenden Scheiben für Orte und die 24-Stundenanzeige zeigt gleichzeitig und ständig die Uhrzeit aller 24 Zeitzonen der Erde an.
Dank eines 1999 patentierten Mechanismus kann der Benutzer durch einfaches Betätigen des Drückers bei 10 Uhr alle Weltzeiten gleichzeitig in Stundenschritten korrigieren.
5231G - COMPLICATIONS
Since Louis Cottier’s invention of this mechanism during the 1930s, the famous Patek Philippe World Time watches have often been adorned with maps in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel depicting various regions of the world.
In 2022, Patek Philippe pays tribute to the dynamism of South-East Asia and to Oceania by interpreting this model in a new white gold version with a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dial.
To combine geography and poetry, the artisan first marks off the outlines of the continents with a thin gold wire. He then fills the compartments with various enamel colors reproducing the oceans and land masses, while repeatedly firing the enameled dial plate at high temperature in a kiln.
7130R - COMPLICATIONS
In 2022, Reference 7130 set the crowning touch to the longstanding tradition of Patek Philippe World Time watches by introducing a ladies’ model. In 2022, the Manufacture reinterprets this classic by adorning it with an original, modern and elegant olive green color. The dial center pays tribute to Rare Craftsmanship skills with a finely hand-guilloched basketweave motif. Its olive green shade is picked up on the city disk on which the white-printed names stand out in an extremely legible manner.
Beating inside this refined exterior is self-winding Caliber 240 HU, an ultra-thin movement that helps keep the case extremely slim. Thanks to its city disk and its 24-hour disk (divided into day/night zones distinguished by their color and by the sun/moon symbols), this caliber simultaneously and permanently displays the time in all 24 time zones.
5374/300P - GRAND COMPLICATIONS
Patek Philippe brilliantly reinterprets Reference 5374 — a combination of two highly sought-after major complications — in a new platinum Haute Joaillerie version with a blue-lacquered dial. The case with its subtle play on curves is paved with baguette-cut diamonds tracing a luminous geometrical pattern. The concave bezel adorned with a double row of baguette diamonds forms a perfect circle. The dial flange is also set with baguette diamonds, with baguette blue sapphires on the hour-markers. This original design forms an “amphitheater” around the dial and creates a spectacular depth effect. The visual balance of the perpetual calendar indications shown by hands, standing out against the blue-lacquered background with black-gradient rim, is thus particularly highlighted.
Its self-winding mechanical Caliber R 27 Q is equipped with a minute repeater mechanism chiming on two “cathedral” gongs wrapped almost twice around the movement and producing a deep, rich sound.
7121/200G - COMPLICATIONS
A complication much appreciated on ladies’ watches, the moon-phase indication has enjoyed pride of place since 2013 on Reference 7121J. Patek Philippe reinterprets this mechanical poem by equipping it with a white gold case and an elegant blue dial on which the displays stand out like stars in the night sky. The dial is enhanced by a sunburst decoration creating subtle light effects. The Manufacture also reinforces the jewelry dimension of this model by illuminating its bezel with a double row of 132 brilliant-cut diamonds based on the exclusive lacy Dentelle gemsetting technique.
Beating at the heart of this jewelry-watch is manually wound mechanical Caliber 215 PS LU: the smallest Patek Philippe complicated movement that helps maintain a daintily elegant 33 mm case diameter.