Show Piece
One of the most impressive things ever created by Beyer: the new Ornamenta jewellery collection is a tribute to Zurich and its history.
Shimmering shanks wind their way up towards the fire. Their sculptural elegance is reminiscent of goblets, grails, even tiny cathedrals. The ingeniously ornamental presentations breathe an exceptional spirit, which seems to hover over everything, illuminated from within, sublime and beguiling at once: rare sapphires, rubies and aquamarines sparkle playfully in the light.
“Ornamenta” is the name of the latest collection from the Beyer Jewellery Atelier: Never before in its more than twenty-year history has it dared to tackle such an exquisite project. Without question, many a stunning one-off piece been fashioned to customer specifications during that time. But as a defining high-jewellery series, Ornamenta is probably unique on Bahnhofstrasse. Also because it pays homage to Zurich, the home of the Beyer family for many generations.
So it is no coincidence that Hanspeter Pieth, Beyer’s recently retired CEO, says: “Beyer is Zurich – and Zurich is Beyer.” This idea was the inspiration when Pieth sat down with Željko Gregurek, the head of the Jewellery Atelier, in autumn 2023. The two creative minds explored ideas for a new jewellery collection that is both typical of Zurich and at the same time completely novel.
“THERE ARE ALWAYS DETAILS
THAT LOOK DIFFERENT IN THREE DIMENSIONS
THAN ON PAPER.”
SCOURING FACADES
Because Gregurek has developed a penchant for sculptural objects over his long career as a goldsmith and is particularly fascinated by frescoes and ornaments, the two decided to delve into Zurich’s history and set out to poke around in the past. They found what they were looking for: at the Stadthaus, the Grossmünster, the Opera House, Paradeplatz, the main railway station – and above all in the façade of the Fraumünster. “It was overwhelming to see the wealth of detail that revealed itself on closer inspection,” says Gregurek: “I can wholeheartedly recommend a walk like this.”
The treasure trove of Zurich quotes was analysed and the wheat separated from the chaff. Then it was the goldsmiths’ turn. They began to design, discard and correct: a first ring took shape and was soon ready for the next step, the prototype. “There are always details that look different in three dimensions than on paper,” Gregurek explains. “Then you reflect, change something here, adjust something there, and work on it until you are satisfied with the result.” He laughs: “Most of the time the devil’s in the details; but because every intervention has its own dynamic, it’s quite possible that you’ll discover a new potential somewhere that is still untapped or has not been sufficiently exploited. For our masterpiece, the tourmaline ring, it took several attempts before we arrived at today’s result.”
SCULPTURAL WORKS OF ART
Sawing, bending, sanding, balancing: To do justice to the exquisite gemstones, they are showcased with a beguiling wealth of detail. The big challenge is to make this detail no less distinctive than harmonious, and in line with all the rules of the goldsmith’s art.
Inspired by the facade of the Fraumünster: The Beyer Atelier worked on the Ornamenta collection for about a year.
Left to right: Ring in white gold and pink gold with a ruby (8.115 ct), set with diamonds and rubies. Ring in white gold and pink gold with an aquamarine (4.900 ct), set with diamonds and sapphires. Ring in white gold and rose gold with an emerald (4.418 ct), set with brilliant-cut diamonds and tsavolites.
THE SEARCH FOR THE SOUL
Only then did the actual goldsmith’s work begin, the sawing and heating, bending and sanding, fitting and soldering, the mounting and setting of the gemstones, the balancing and perfecting. The jewellery passes through various hands: flawless teamwork involving goldsmiths, setters and engravers is essential in order to perfectly showcase big ideas in a small space. “As our studio credo dictates, we make no compromises,” says Gregurek. Whether aquamarine or pink tourmaline, chrysoberyl or ruby, sapphire or emerald: the stones must not only be of suitably high quality, but also all have a ‘soul’, as Gregurek puts it: “Our challenge is to ensure that these little wonders are shown off to their full advantage.”
In addition to precious pieces that embrace, caress and protect the gemstone, the Ornamenta collection also includes items of jewellery in which the stone rests in a floating setting, and almost looks as if it were hovering in the air. “We put a huge amount of effort into creating this technical innovation,” says Gregurek. “We’re very happy with the result.”
It goes without saying that the collection will be continuously expanded. Some ideas already exist and will become reality in the near future. The design language remains the unifying element. However, each precious item from the Ornamenta collection will exude individuality depending on the choice of gemstones in shape, size, cut or play of colours. In addition, a fine blue sapphire and a sparkling brilliant-cut diamond, as the Beyer signature in each piece of jewellery, make a discreet reference to their origins: to an institution that are as much a part of Zurich and its history as the Stadthaus, the main railway station or the Fraumünster.
Left to right: Ring in yellow gold with a green tourmaline (5.120 ct), set with champagne-coloured diamonds. Ring in white gold with a chrysoberyl (5.370 ct), set with violet-blue sapphires. Ring in white and pink gold with a sapphire (5.006 ct) set with diamonds.
ORNAMENTA: THE FILM
We are also proud of the film about our new treasures. Particularly so because it is not based on someone’s fantasy drawings, but on the original plans of the Fraumünster. We would like to take this opportunity to thank the Protestant Reformed Church of Zurich for their trust.
COLLECTOR’S PIECE
As a reminiscence of the heraldic animal of Zurich and as a collector’s item, the Beyer Jewellery Atelier has created a limited edition of lion brooches, five centimetres tall by four centimetres wide and bearing the Beyer signature: a sparkling brilliant-cut diamond and a blue sapphire. Every year, another exclusive item of lion-motif jewellery will be added.
Beyer has operated its own jewellery atelier since 2002. Above the shop at Bahnhofstrasse 31, four to six goldsmiths and jewellers produce their own collections and commissioned pieces.
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