The most elegant of the titans - ROLEX Perpetual 1908
Subtle, but with a distinctive aura, the Rolex 1908 takes the liberty of being an exception to the rule – and conceals a surprise.
A good watch tells a story. About its origins, for example. About its inner life. About its character. Some watches don’t just talk, they shout. They fight for attention, ostentatiously, imperiously. And then there’s the Rolex Perpetual 1908, which has no need of all that, yet there’s no ignoring its voice that is refreshingly quiet, clear, refined. Almost a whisper, in fact. It has its own story to tell – one of understatement, subtle elegance and timelessness.
And of tradition. The name says it all: 1908 was the year in which brand founder Hans Wilsdorf created the name “Rolex” as the signature for his watches and had the brand protected in Switzerland.
THE GENES OF THE GENEVA BRAND
It doesn’t take long to recognise the watch for what it is: sophistication pure and simple, the opposite of a massive presence. No opulent materials, no distinctive numerals, no solid steel case signalling an escapist thirst for adventure. Instead: gold. Or platinum. With a satin-finished or guilloché dial. A delicately domed sapphire crystal. A Breguet- style hour hand, and a minute hand shaped like a double-edged sword. We are looking at a dress watch in its purest form; not typical for the brand, as many are quick to point out, and yet it is truly a Rolex to the core. There’s no denying that it carries in itself the genes of the Geneva brand, the promise of longevity, robustness and flawless mechanics – paired with an exquisite elegance.
“IT’S LIKE FINALLY
SEEING WHAT MAKES THE
MONA LISA SMILE”
A feast for the eyes: the delicate rotor affords a glimpse of the inner values.
A MINOR SENSATION
And then, as you turn the watch over in your hand, there comes the moment that changes everything once again: a stunning revelation for lovers of fine mechanics – you see the movement. That is a minor sensation. Never before has Rolex afforded us a glimpse of the movement (except for the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in platinum, where it is calibre 4131). “It’s like finally seeing what makes the Mona Lisa smile,” one watch magazine wrote.
The movement: calibre 7140 for the 1908. Anyone who isn’t taken by a sense of awe at the sight has no flair for watches. There’s the delicate rotor, which – unlike what you often see – does not obstruct the view of the interior. There are the bridges with Rolex’s own interpretation of the Geneva stripes, a finish that differs from the traditional côtes de Genève by the addition of a fine polished groove between the individual stripes. And there is the throbbing Syloxi spiral, a spectacle in itself.
Of course, a calibre is a mechanical interplay of wheels, pinions and springs – skilled engineering in miniature. But it is also much more, it is the beating heart that brings the watch to life. Perhaps even its soul. The 1908 is not just a dress watch. It is a statement for people who are looking for more than prestige. And have no need to make their statement loudly. But do so quietly, discreetly – and no less powerfully.
Slim, and the epitome of harmony: the 1908 in the yellow gold version.
Pierre-André Schmitt is considered one of the most experienced watch journalists in Switzerland. For beyond, he takes a closer look at Rolex models.
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