Patek Philippe News 2020, Grandes Complications
These two timepieces represent a perfect meld of tradition and innovation. Paired with beautiful finesse in looks and features, they enrich the already extensive lineup of Grand Complications.
5270J CHRONOGRAPH. PERPETUAL CALENDAR.
A grand classic in a new yellow-gold version
As the heir of Patek Philippe’s legendary 1941 classic, the Ref. 5270 chronograph with a perpetual calendar has been available since 2018 in a platinum version with an opaline gilt dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte”-style bracelet. Now, the manufacture is enriching its current collection with a new interpretation of this grand complication that debuts in a yellow-gold case. It is an elegant outfit for this timeless watch that combines a concave bezel with slightly flared strap lugs.
The silvery opaline dial with applied hour markers and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold is superbly legible. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced, with an analog date at 6 o’clock, a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock, as well as two round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle, not to mention the moon-phase aperture. Sand-blasted hands are assigned to the chronograph functions. The tachymeter scale delivers speed readings with the chronograph hand.
The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. Its traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel, manual winder) is complemented with six patented innovations and an extremely thin calendar mechanism (182 parts; height 1.65 mm). The movement is revealed by the sapphire-crystal case back. The watch is delivered with an interchangeable solid back in yellow gold.
The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matte chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales and a yellow-gold foldover clasp. It joins the previous collection with the platinum and rosegold versions.
5370P SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH
A fresh look with a Grand Feu blue enamel dial
Presented in 2015, Patek Philippe’s first split-seconds chronograph based on the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS in a classic configuration was the Ref. 5370 with a platinum case and a black enamel dial. This coveted grand complication has now been updated with a new blue face that revisits Patek Philippe’s storied tradition in Grand Feu enamel dials. The dial color of the compact hand-crafted masterpiece in 18K gold is incomparably intense and refined with a glossy finish.
Its legibility is outstanding, as befits the class of a technical instrument. The hours and minutes are clearly and crisply indicated by extended leaf-shaped hands with luminous coatings and applied Breguet numerals in white gold. Stopped times are just as precisely and quickly readable thanks to the slender chronograph and rattrapante hands from the center, the instantaneously jumping 30-minutecounter hands in white gold and the white printed chronograph scales that contrast well against the blue enamel.
The two-phase chronograph movement features two pushers for the three classic chronograph functions and a pusher in the crown to start and stop the rattrapante hand – a perfect combination of tradition and innovation. The traditional facets of this manually wound timepiece are its classic architecture with column-wheel control and the horizontal gear clutch. Numerous optimizations and patented innovations manifest the 21st century as does the fundamentally redesigned split-seconds mechanism.
The elegance of the polished case with a concave bezel and satinfinished recesses in the flanks gains prominence with a shiny night blue alligator strap and the platinum fold-over clasp.
As is the case with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the new Ref. 5370P-011 is graced with a small diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It replaces the predecessor version with the black enamel dial.