It is undisputedly the king of cuts and is what makes a rough diamond into a brilliant: the 56 intersecting facets on the round basic shape split white light into all colours of the spectrum (termed “fire”) and chase them to and fro through the stone until they are catapulted out of the carousel and delight our eyes. The Cut Scale of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) ranges from “excellent” to “poor”. If the cut grade, symmetry and polish are of the highest quality, one speaks of “triple excellent”. At Beyer, only brilliant-cut diamonds with this rating are used.
Multiple trapezoidal facets extend from the corners into the centre, creating a fanned-out X pattern. With its 57 cut surfaces, the princess cut is sometimes referred to as a square modified brilliant cut. And is considered the most modern and sporty-looking cut – it was only invented in its current form in 1979.
HEART, OVAL, NAVETTE AND PEAR CUT
They are often referred to as fancy cuts, though not in a pejorative sense: the modified brilliant cuts have established themselves as interesting alternatives to the classic brilliant cut and even make certain gemstones appear larger than they actually are.